Then there are parts of the city that retain their French charm: wide boulevards, ornate balconies, wrought-iron French windows. There are huge public spaces which might once have held gardens, but are now dirt parks. Before 1975, Cambodia was the richest country in the region, and I could just imagine how grand the city must have been then. The river is magnificent and wide, with benches all along it and palm trees on the distant shore. (It does stink though). Overlooking the river are some gorgeous colonial villas.

Phnom Penh is an international city, with ready access to espressos and pancakes with proper syrup and, of course, cheap French baguettes. We were in baguette country now, since Cambodia was part of the French colony of Indochina (along with VietNam and Laos). Some small streets are choked with smelly but colorful markets where you get your snouts and fish heads.

The bikes--there are no cars anywhere--stream slowly but continuously through the sreets, unhampered by a single traffic light or stopsign! Sometimes the bikes are 16 abreast, and of course you often see families of 5 on one bike. Or 3 cops with machine guns. The drivers go with the flow, weaving slowly around each other without frustration or road rage. As a pedestrian, you must just summon your courage and start across, looking straight ahead. They will go around you.